Wednesday, January 2, 2019

Negambo - Sri Lanka: A Serene Escape Amidst Traditional Fishing Life


Ready for my adventure to Sri Lanka, I breezed through immigration only to be stopped by a customs officer. He seemed suspicious, maybe because I was traveling alone. After thoroughly checking my luggage, he asked how much money I had. When I said RM700.00, he acted like it was a fortune, grilling me endlessly. Despite explaining it was for spending, he wouldn't relent. Finally, with no real reason to hold me, he let me go. I joined a group of five Malaysian Chinese, part of my tour, and thankfully, one of them approached me before we got into the van.

Our first stop was lunch at St. Lachan Hotel, set in a beautiful garden. We were greeted with 'ayubowan,' a Sinhalese greeting similar to Namaste. As we nibbled on crispy snacks and got acquainted, we waited for our food. The 20-minute wait was worth it as we enjoyed an amazing meal, especially the fish curry with veggies and rice.

 





Next, we toured Negombo, the second largest city in the Western province after Colombo, known for its fishing industry. Our first stop was the 140-year-old St. Mary’s Church, the largest cathedral in Negombo. Its painted ceiling and alabaster statues were stunning.


A wedding was about to start, so we took a quick look around and moved on. As we continued the tour, we saw villagers selling fresh catch along the roadside, highlighting Negombo's fishing heritage. By 4pm, my tour buddies were dropped off at Camelot Beach Hotel, while I checked into Paradise Holiday Village, facing the busy narrow main road.

Bustling with Western tourists, I patiently waited for my room key. When I finally got it, I struggled to carry my luggage up two floors. The room was a letdown - old furniture, the thinnest mattress, pillows and blanket, a noisy air conditioner, and just a small bar of soap in the bathroom. No kettle, no WiFi. It felt like a dungeon, though it was clean. 




I returned to the reception, where a somewhat frisky male staff member suggested a spa treatment at Jasmine Villa Ayurveda Resort. I decided to go for it, including transport to and from the spa. The serene, traditional setting offered various packages, and I chose a stress-reducing oil massage. It was fantastic. However, the traditional sauna was a different story. Ten minutes in, I felt claustrophobic with my body boxed in the wooden sauna, except for my face. I quickly got out, showered, settled the bill, and was taken back to the hotel.

After grabbing some food from the almost finished buffet, I returned to my room, showered again, and was about to call it a night when the phone rang. Twice. It was the same male staff member, pestering me for a night out clubbing or to come over to my room. Scary. I firmly told him I was tired, hoping he got the message. But I still felt uneasy. I double-checked the lock on my door, which felt flimsy, and the noisy air conditioner added to my anxiety. I barely slept, maybe catnapping for two to three hours at most.

Up by 5am, I took another shower and walked to the fishing village, a fifteen-minute stroll from the hotel. As the sun slowly rose, I stood by the shore, feeling the stares of the local fishermen. Summoning my courage, I broke the ice by speaking to them in Tamil. To my surprise, they warmly responded, explaining their fishing techniques and livelihood. They were truly Good Samaritans.



After an hour at the beach, I returned to the hotel for breakfast. By 9am, our tour guide arrived with the four other travel buddies for the start of our second day. We were heading from Negombo to Kandy. Reflecting on my time in Negombo, I realized it was nothing more than a traditional fishing village. Even the guide echoed this sentiment. However, Negombo's charm lies in its simplicity. It's a place to relax, indulge in fresh seafood, and take a break from the stress of daily life. It's a spot to unwind, reflect, and perhaps find a bit of clarity about what you want from life.




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