Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala: Beyond the Ordinary

Before we headed to Kochi later in the day, our morning was dedicated to some sightseeing in Thiruvananthapuram (UNCOVERING UNEXPECTED DISCOVERIES) The previous day, we had taken a delightful (ALLEPPEY OVERNIGHT) detour from our itinerary, but today we were all about sticking to the plan. Our day started off around 10 am at the awe-inspiring Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple. This majestic temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, is renowned for its rich history, breathtaking Dravidian architecture, and staggering wealth. 

Established in the 18th century by Travancore Maharaja Marthanda Varma, the temple showcases the deity in a rare "Anantha Shayanam" posture, reclining gracefully on the serpent Anantha. Of course, its international fame skyrocketed with the discovery of hidden treasures worth billions, firmly securing its place as one of the world's richest temples.

 

As we ambled from the main road towards the temple, passing by a rather stern-looking policeman, we noticed a flurry of activity to our right. People were collecting clothes from behind a table, and our curiosity got the better of us. It turned out that we needed to buy a dhoti, a traditional garment. It's an unstitched piece of cloth, usually around 4 to 6 feet long, wrapped around the waist, to reach almost to the ankle. This made sense for me, dressed as I was in knee-length pants and a t-shirt, but the sister, in her loose pants and long blouse, was also instructed to wrap up from waist to feet. Ah, the temple's take on decency was indeed strict!

 

After navigating the tight security checks and with the no-photography rule, we finally made our way into Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple. The atmosphere was charged with devotion as we joined the prayers. This being my maiden trip to India, though I have heard about the express lanes for reaching to gods in India, but noticing the sign firsthand was something else. Picture a VIP toll system, like the ones back in Malaysia, but for seeking blessings. Woooooo!!! Divine favoritism at its finest.

Speak about decency as well, shall we? The local women in sarees, their blouses revealing more than concealing, and midriffs exposed, somehow embody what's considered decorum within these temple walls. It's a cultural paradox - one that greets you warmly as you step into Kerala's tapestry of traditions.

After about half an hour of prayers - though my fascination leaned more towards the temple's architecture and the bustling atmosphere than my devotions - we journeyed onward to our next destination: Sree Chitra Art Gallery. This illustrious museum, established in 1935 by the Maharaja of Travancore, Chithira Thirunal Balarama Varma, houses a treasure trove of both traditional and contemporary Indian art. Among its prized possessions are the exquisite works of Raja Ravi Varma, celebrated for his vivid portrayals of Indian mythology and classical themes, alongside impressive pieces from the Mughal and Tanjore schools, and evocative Tibetan Thangka paintings and murals from across Asia.

 

While art, culture, and creativity undoubtedly deserve the highest accolades, for someone like me, uninitiated in the subtleties of artistic expression, the experience can be somewhat overwhelming. With just 20 minutes to spare, there's only so much one can absorb of the artistic riches that grace the gallery's walls.

Subsequently, we strolled over to the nearby Napier Museum, a venerable institution named after the former Madras Governor General, John Napier, situated in Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala. This 19th-century museum, designed by British architect Robert Chisholm, is a splendid example of Indo-Saracenic architecture, blending Indian, Chinese, Kerala, and Mughal styles seamlessly. Inside, it hosts a vast collection of historical treasures, from bronze idols and ancient ornaments to intricately carved ivory pieces and even a temple chariot. The museum also boasts an extensive display of traditional Kerala artwork, offering a glimpse into the state's cultural richness.

Photography, alas, is strictly prohibited - a tough pill to swallow for someone entrenched in the blogosphere. But then again, Kerala plays by its own rules, doesn't it? Adjacent to the museum, the compound houses an Art Gallery and a Zoo, nestled within beautifully landscaped gardens. Art overload? Perhaps. Yet, as a lover of creativity and its myriad expressions, I couldn't help but appreciate the artistic flair that permeates every corner.

We capped off our visit with a leisurely half-hour at the zoo, taking in the sights before we headed for a buffet lunch at a nearby hotel, enjoying a brief respite before our journey to Kochi commenced.