Thursday, March 21, 2019

Kochi, Kerala: Peeling Back the Layers of History

View of Mattancherry Road in Kochi, Kerala, bustling with activity and charm
In another half hour (TRIRUVANANTHAPURAM), we would be in Kochi. During that time, a demure, sweet, middle-aged Keralite lady tour guide joined our van. Without any prompting, she began sharing the significance of Kochi. Also known as Cochin, it’s a major port city on the southwest coast of India in Kerala. Historically referred to as the "Queen of the Arabian Sea," Kochi has been a bustling center of trade and commerce since ancient times, drawing traders from Europe, Arabia, and China. 

Its strategic location and natural harbor have made it a melting pot of cultures, contributing to its diverse heritage. Kochi is also famed for its vibrant maritime history, being home to one of India's oldest European settlements, and it remains a vital hub for shipping and international trade (COLOMBO & KANDY SRI LANKA).

Sure enough, after listening to her, we were eager to explore Kochi. Walking alongside our guide, we arrived in Mattancherry, greeted by a picturesque scene of shops lining both sides of the road. Between those selling clothes, souvenirs, and offering local delicacies, we finally arrived at the entrance of the Dutch Palace.

Shop selling home decoration items with traditional designs in Kerala, India

Handloom shop on Mattancherry Road, Kochi, Kerala, showcasing vibrant fabrics

Mattancherry Road abuzz with tourists and locals exploring shops and sights

Spice shop in Kerala displaying aromatic spices and traditional ingredients
The Dutch Palace, also known as Mattancherry Palace, is a historic gem reflecting Kochi's colonial past. Originally built by the Portuguese in the mid-16th century and later renovated by the Dutch, the palace was presented to the Raja of Cochin. Its architecture is a fascinating blend of Kerala and colonial styles, featuring a central courtyard, a traditional Kerala temple, and intricately carved wooden ceilings. Inside, the palace houses an impressive collection of royal artifacts, portraits of Cochin rulers, and stunning murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana and other Hindu epics.

 

As a history buff, I found it truly meaningful to explore each section, despite the cramped spaces filled with fellow tourists. From royal weapons and swings to furniture reflecting the royal family's lifestyle, every display offered a captivating glimpse into the past.

The Dutch Palace exhibits in Kochi, Kerala, showcasing local history and art

With the Dutch Palace thoroughly explored, we made our way to the nearby 400-year-old Jewish Synagogue. The Paradesi Synagogue, built in 1568, stands proudly in the heart of Jew Town, Kochi. This historic gem testifies to the enduring presence of the Jewish community in Kerala. Inside, it's a feast for the eyes: hand-painted willow-patterned Chinese tiles, a shimmering Belgian crystal chandelier, and intricate gold crowns gifted by various patrons. Ancient Torah scrolls and a wealth of historical artifacts add to the synagogue's allure, making it a significant cultural and religious landmark that highlights Kochi's multicultural heritage and religious harmony.

Listening to our guide's detailed narration was essential to truly appreciate the synagogue. Without it, the visit would be a mere visual tour, missing the deeper significance of what we saw.

Exterior view of the 400-year-old Jewish Synagogue in Kochi, Kerala
As we departed, we encountered the evening traffic in Kochi, a surprising revelation. Who knew Kochi had such traffic? This is a side of Kochi to be aware of. We barely made it to St. Francis Church, the oldest European church in India, fifteen minutes before closing time.
St. Francis Church exterior, a historic landmark in Kochi, Kerala
St. Francis Church, originally built by the Portuguese in 1503, holds great historical importance as the initial burial site of Vasco da Gama, the renowned Portuguese explorer whose remains were later moved to Lisbon. The church's architecture reflects a blend of Portuguese, Dutch, and British influences, evident in its simple yet elegant design. It has stood the test of time, witnessing transitions from Portuguese to Dutch to British rule, with each leaving its mark.


With only 15 minutes to spare, we dashed through the church, ignoring the impatient reminders from the staff about the closing time. Despite the rush, seeing Vasco da Gama's burial spot was truly fascinating. Goosebumps prickled my skin as I stood there, remembering how I had to memorize his exploits for my secondary history exams. His name alone is powerful and evocative. Hail Vasco da Gama.

Photo of Vasco da Gama displayed in St. Francis Church, Kochi, Kerala


Burial spot of Vasco da Gama at St. Francis Church in Kochi, Kerala
Visiting these significant places was a wonderful experience. They are legendary sightseeing spots that no visitor to Kochi should miss. There's so much history in these places, making them not just the legends of Kochi, but also of Kerala. Wow, Kochi, you are a winner!

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