When
in Malacca (MALACCA'S LEGENDARY SITES), a visit to the Portuguese Settlement is a must. Established in
1933, this legendary spot preserves the traditions of Portuguese descendants
who have lived there for centuries. The settlement stands as a testament to the
enduring legacy of Portuguese influence in Malaysia, dating back to the early
16th century when the famed explorer Afonso de Albuquerque captured Malacca in
1511. Albuquerque, a pivotal figure in the Age of Discovery, played a crucial
role in establishing Portuguese colonial dominance in Southeast Asia.
Our late evening trip to the Portuguese
Settlement was driven by a quest for its renowned food and a desire to
experience the area's unique atmosphere. The settlement's historical importance
is intertwined with the spice trade, which significantly shaped its local
cuisine. The Portuguese, led by Albuquerque, sought control over Malacca as a
strategic port in the lucrative spice trade routes between the East and West.
This influence is evident in the fusion of Portuguese and local Malay flavors,
creating the distinctive Kristang cuisine, a culinary heritage reflecting the
profound impact of the spice trade on the gastronomic traditions of Malacca's
Portuguese community.
Taking a cab from the hotel, we passed by
modern houses as we entered the Portuguese Settlement. For those driving, there
is a spacious open car park, and just across it, all the stalls line up in a
single file, facing the sea. I expected some upscale eateries, but what
greeted us were unassuming, open-air coffee shop-style stalls. Colorful lights
gave a romantic dining vibe, complemented by plastic tables and chairs.
As soon as we stepped out of the cab, we
were swarmed by stall staff, each trying to lure us to their assigned spot. It
was quite a challenge getting away from them, as they were just doing their
jobs in this competitive food business. Once we managed to escape the crowd, we
walked along the side cemented pavement, close to the fenced area, and took a
moment to admire the slowly fading golden sunset. Beautiful. Awesomeness! A
golden moment in the Portuguese Settlement (OSAKA SUNSET, CAPE TOWN SUNSET & KERALA SUNSET). Next came the decision of which eatery to
choose. We ended up at one of the stalls, persistently recommended by a lady
who noticed us and approached with a smile. After reviewing the menu and placing our
orders, we chose drinks from the nearby stalls: fresh coconut and fresh orange
juice from the lady who approached us.
Within ten minutes, our dishes arrived
one by one. We sampled grilled black pepper brinjal, assam prawns, petai
sambal, salted egg crab, and sambal baked fish. The dining experience in the
Portuguese Settlement was notable, but unfortunately, the sambal baked fish was
unpalatable due to the raw smell of the sambal, the salted egg crab lacked
flavor, and the other dishes appeared rushed in their preparation.
The total came
to around RM140. It may be prudent to seek recommendations from those who have
dined here before or be prepared to experiment and take your chances. The
Portuguese Settlement seems to have become a fixture on the tourist itinerary,
evident from the steady stream of busloads arriving for a meal, with many
already enjoying their food. As for me, I’m unlikely to return - not due to the food experience, but because there are other places where
a true food critic might explore.
Note: The specific eatery or stall is not
mentioned out of respect for the efforts of these small businesses. Public
criticism could affect their survival in a competitive market.
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