Sunday, April 5, 2020

Surakarta (Solo): Heartbeat of Central Java

The final day of my 5-day, 4-night escapade has arrived (BOROBUDUR ETERNAL LEGEND & YOGYAKARTA REGAL WONDERS). Tomorrow morning, I’ll  be heading back to reality, back to the daily grind. As much as I'd love to keep traveling forever, the truth is, it's time to return home. But not before I embark on my last adventure in Surakarta, also known as Solo.

My day began with a delightful hotel buffet breakfast at Harper Mangkubumi. The spread was a feast for the senses, especially the array of local traditional dishes that tantalized my  taste buds. Satisfied and ready for the day, we set off  (COLOMBO DREAMS & SEOUL THROUGH MY EYES) for Surakarta.


Surakarta, or Solo, is a city steeped in history and culture, nestled in Central Java, Indonesia. Founded in 1745 by Pakubuwono II, it once served as the capital of the Mataram Sultanate before the split into the Surakarta Sunanate and the Yogyakarta Sultanate. Positioned along the banks of the Bengawan Solo River, this city is renowned for its Javanese arts, batik, and wayang (shadow puppetry). Surakarta also holds a significant place in Indonesia's journey to independence, having been a hotspot for nationalist activities.

Our journey to Solo took about an hour, and before we knew, we had arrived at Pasar Triwindu, or Triwindu Market. This market is a place for antique collectors, offering a plethora of treasures tucked away in narrow aisles and spread across two floors. From vintage furniture to ancient relics, the market will lure those with a keen eye for antiques. However, if you're not an avid collector, Pasar Triwindu might seem more like a maze of dusty artifacts. For me, it was an interesting detour, a glimpse into Solo's eclectic offerings, even if it wasn't the highlight of this trip.





From Pasar Triwindu, we made our way on foot to Mangkunegaran Palace. Established in 1757 by Raden Mas Said, who later became Mangkunegara I, the palace serves as the residence of the Mangkunegaran royal family. Architecturally, Mangkunegaran Palace is a  blend of Javanese and European styles, featuring intricate carvings, expansive halls, and beautiful gardens. The palace complex includes the Pendopo Ageng, a grand pavilion used for official ceremonies and cultural performances, and the Dalem Ageng, the main residence. Mangkunegaran Palace is not only a historical landmark but also a cultural center, preserving traditional Javanese arts such as dance, music, and literature.

Before starting with our tour, we were given plastic bags to carry our shoes, a common practice to maintain the palace's pristine condition. Our local guide provided commentary as we had a look at the combination of traditional Javanese architecture and European-influenced interiors. While the palace holds significant historical value and is still the residence of the royal family. It wasn’t the highlight of Surakarta for me, but it was certainly an experience worth having.





Next on our itinerary was lunch at Restaurant Pecel Solo. The restaurant's ambiance was reminiscent of a palace, with its glowing decor and elegant setting. However, the cramped dining area and lackluster food left much to be desired. The dishes were similar to what we had already experienced in other eateries, making the meal rather underwhelming.


After lunch, we were dropped off at Pusat Grosir Solo for a three-hour shopping spree. The bustling market offered a myriad of shops, but I quickly realized it wasn't my scene. After a brief 5-minute browse, I decided to join another tour buddy for a drink from one of the nearby stalls. We spent the remainder of our time chatting and people-watching, eventually waiting outside the mall for the rest of our group.
Next, we headed to the Mata Mata Museum, also known as the 3D Art Trick Museum in other parts of the world, It was a fun stop for posing and snapping photos, making the most of our cameras. With the museum’s interactive exhibits and optical illusions, it was the spot to let loose and enjoy some lighthearted moments. 



After spending about an hour there, we made our way back to the hotel, but not before a suggested detour by our tour guide to the Bakpia Pathok outlet. Bakpia, a popular Indonesian handmade pastry, comes with various fillings, the most common being green peas. The outlet was buzzing with activity, packed with people eager to buy these treats. I couldn't resist and picked up a couple of boxes, driven by my greedy eyes. Unfortunately, I made the mistake of not refrigerating them when I got home, and they went rancid, ending up in the bin.

Our final culinary stop was Roaster & Bear Restaurant. Although it’s pricier compared to street food, it offered an interesting experience. The restaurant attracts a different segment of Indonesian society, with an elite crowd that take selfies and dress up. The menu featured a delightful mix of Western and local dishes, and the cozy, carefully curated ambiance made it a memorable dining experience. The food did not disappoint, making it a worthwhile visit.


Essence of Jogyakarta & Surakarta
The People
I felt a connection with every person I met in Jogyakarta and Surakarta. Our guide's simplicity and the friendly conversations at sightseeing spots or on the streets left an impression. Indonesians won me over with their humility and warmth. Their approachable nature and the fact that Malaysians speak Bahasa, despite some differences in vocabulary, made communication easy and enjoyable. They all knew about Malaysia, adding to the camaraderie. This was undoubtedly one of the most fulfilling experiences of my trip.

Indonesian Cuisine
My love for Indonesian cuisine began with Malay food, growing up in a Malay neighborhood. Over time, I discovered the flavors of Indonesian dishes. Tempeh, tofu, petai, ulam, masak lemak, and especially sambal ijo and sambal terasi became my favorite. This trip was a culinary delight, indulging in all my favorite Indonesian dishes. Surprisingly, my tour buddies,whom were trying Indonesian cuisine for the first time.




Traffic
Traffic in Indonesia is chaotic, much like in other countries I've visited. The constant rush and need for speed seem to be ingrained in the lifestyle here. It was an adventure in itself, navigating through the streets and witnessing the chaos.

 

Shopping

I'm not one for shopping, preferring to explore history and legendary spots. During this trip, the allocated shopping time felt like a waste. However, shopping is a major draw for many travelers, which explains its inclusion in the itinerary. While I tagged along, I found that most Indonesian goods and products are available in Malaysia at comparable prices.

Overall, my journey through Jogyakarta and Surakarta was a remarkable experience. Each footprint I left behind marked an unforgettable moment, making this trip an amazing and lifelong memory.



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