South India - Madurai/Trichy: Spiritual Insights

By 10 am (KODAIKANAL & MYSURU), we arrived at the entrance of the Meenakshi Amman Temple. Dedicated to Goddess Meenakshi and her consort Sundareswarar (Shiva), this ancient marvel in Madurai, Tamil Nadu, is renowned for its intricate carvings, towering gopurams (gateway towers), and vibrant sculptures dating back to the 6th century, showcasing the splendor of Dravidian architecture. Spanning 14 acres, the temple complex includes grand halls like the Thousand Pillar Hall. 

Upon arrival, we had to deposit our phones and cameras at the booth where we left our slippers, paying a fee. Standing in the long queue, we learned about an option to pay to shorten our wait time - not uncommon in Indian temples. After enduring 45 minutes under the scorching sun, with feet blistered from the burning heat of the cement, I had been in favor from the start; finally, the rest of our group reluctantly agreed, which moved us closer to the center of the line, although many others remained ahead of us.

The experience in the queue was eye-opening. The strong smell of hair oil from local women was overwhelming, prompting curiosity about its significance and type. Additionally, some older local men were getting frisky, swiftly averting their gaze when noticed.

 

When it came to seeking blessings from Meenakshi Amman, we had at most three minutes before being pushed by the police to move forward. Despite these experiences, witnessing Meenakshi Amman is still unforgettable. Her gentle smile and the glimmer of her nose ring radiated a divine presence that touched me deeply. It was a moment of profound connection, leaving a lasting impression that stirred my emotions even after leaving the temple.

 

By the time we arrived at Amma Mess on Alagar Kovil Main Road, it took at least 15 minutes to secure a table, which we ended up sharing with some locals. The Chicken Lollipop and Kudal Kulambu (Goat Intestine Curry), eaten alongside a traditional banana leaf meal, were quite a delight. However, the rest of our group, who opted for just the vegetarian banana leaf lunch, were not pleased.

Our next holy stop was the Tiruparankundram Murugan Temple, one of the six abodes of Lord Murugan, also known as Subramanya or Kartikeya. Carved out of a hill, this ancient temple is renowned for its rock-cut architecture and historical significance, dating back to the 6th century. The temple's sanctum sanctorum is a cave that houses the deity along with other gods and goddesses.

 

We waited in the queue until 4 pm, encountering some ruthless South Indians. Even the elderly were not above pushing their way through and slyly cutting the line. By this point, I had become ruthless too. I just wouldn't give way. After 30 minutes in the queue, we reached the main altar to pray before being shoved by the police to move along.

Subsequently, we journeyed to the hilltop Pazhamuthir Cholai Murugan Temple. Situated on the outskirts of Madurai, Tamil Nadu, this temple is one of the revered six abodes (Arupadai Veedu) of Lord Murugan. Nestled amidst lush greenery atop a hill, the temple is known for its serene surroundings and divine ambiance. It is unique for its natural setting and simplicity, attracting devotees seeking a tranquil spiritual experience. During the festival of Skanda Shasti, the temple becomes a vibrant hub of devotion, celebrating the deity's divine presence. Pazhamuthir Cholai's blend of natural beauty and spiritual significance makes it a must-visit for pilgrims.

After worshipping Lord Murugan and the rest of the gods, we were out of the temple in less than 20 minutes before journeying to Ramyas Hotel in Trichy for our overnight stay. I was already exhausted and, considering the number of people I had been surrounded by today, I had enough of humans. I just wanted time for myself, so instead of joining the rest for dinner, I showered and hit the bed.

The next morning, we headed to Uchi Malai Pilayar Temple. Also known as Rockfort Temple, this historic Hindu temple is located in Tiruchirappalli (Trichy), Tamil Nadu. Perched atop a massive rock formation that rises 83 meters above the surrounding plain, the temple is dedicated to Lord Ganesha, affectionately known as Pillayar. Visitors must climb a series of steep steps carved into the rock to reach the summit, where they are rewarded with panoramic views of the city and the Cauvery River. The temple's origins date back to the 7th century.

Though the temple was crowded at the entrance and the main altar where Lord Ganesha is, the climb up and down, with stops at the shops along the way, provided some breathing space. Lord Ganesha has a cool, calm, and soothing presence, and looking at him and saying your prayers brings a sense of how to be human. However, climbing up the stairs from the entrance was a true test of endurance. It really required strength, but thankfully, I managed.

Lunch was at Gowri Parvathi Bhavan Veg in Thillai Nagar. Another common South Indian fare, raved about by the tour group. For me, it was just average and not a food show-stealer. Dining in such a crowded ambiance didn’t feel conducive either. Not my kind of food scene. 

That’s about it for Trichy. Next was the long-distance marathon-like drive - a 6 1/2-hour journey all the way to Chennai, navigating through the evening traffic jam, until we finally reached S Hotels Chennai in T Nagar. This time, I was given a different room, and thankfully, it was clean and well-maintained. For dinner, I opted for room service. A light meal of Gilapi Sheek Kebab paired with Mint Chutney and, since I was longing for a sugar rush, Gulab Jamun. Both dishes were excellent - good run out of their kitchen.

To be continued.