One more place to go for the day (VARANASI - EXPERIENCING SACREDNESS), and it’s said to
be the best highlight: the Night Aarti at Shri Kashi
Vishwanath Temple (Golden Temple). Dedicated to Lord Shiva, Shri Kashi
Vishwanath Temple is one of the twelve holiest Jyotirlingas. Its golden spire
stands out against Varanasi's skyline, symbolizing divine light. The night
aarti, a revered ritual, draws devotees and tourists with its elaborate chants,
hymns, and offerings, creating an atmosphere of profound devotion. Constructed
in 1780 on the Ganges' western bank, Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple is a key stop
on Varanasi's Heritage Walk, attracting thousands to its nightly ceremony.
Arriving by 7 pm, we followed our guide into the
narrow in-roads, careful not to break the line of our tour group (COLOMBO DISCOVERY, MYANMAR ACROSS MAE SAI & CHENNAI AWAITED). The first
thing I saw was the traditional burning of bodies, with flames reaching high. To
tell you the truth, I felt a little terrified, my imagination running wild - what
if one of the spirits followed me back to my room?
Solo sleeping in a hotel can
feel like braving the unknown. Ohhhhh! I walked close to the temple but didn’t
go inside. About 30 minutes later, we boarded a boat, joining hundreds of
others to watch the night prayer from the water.
It was truly significant and mind-blowing, an
amazing feeling as though I was floating in the water. Watching the Sandhya
Aarti, seeing the temple lit up, and listening to the devotional songs also felt
as though the sky was glowing, and the shimmer touching my soul. Strangely,
those who had been to Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple never mentioned the night
aarti to me. Did they experience it or not? Whatever the case, it’s a must-see,
a true highlight of Varanasi.
When we returned to the Silk City Hotel for the
night, we were informed of an early morning trip back to Shri Kashi Vishwanath
Temple to offer prayers for our ancestors or loved ones who have passed away.
The plan was to leave around 5 am, and while half of the group agreed, I was
taken aback. Such rituals are not really my thing. Instead,
I headed to my
room. The old furniture and fittings felt like a throwback, thankfully it was
clean - a real blessing. I skipped dinner, took a shower, and kept all the
lights on, even the bathroom light, as I always do when staying solo. I felt
like a little chicken, haunted by the memory of the burning bodies at the
temple. Clutching the Lord Ganesha statue I always carry and applying holy ash
on my forehead, I managed to get about four hours of restless sleep.
Up by 7:00 am, I showered and headed down to the
dining area. Breakfast in India typically means dosai, vadai, idli, and other
Indian staples - a standard. Mmmm!
Sightseeing was delayed as we had to wait
for those who went for the early morning ritual prayers. Such hiccups! I waited
in the lobby until everyone was ready. We then headed back to the Shri Kashi
Vishwanath Temple for a dip in the Ganges waters.
I opted out, not daring to consider the
cleanliness of the water, despite assurances from the local guide that the
practice of throwing burned bodies into the river had stopped. Dipping among a
big group of people was still a no for me. As I stood around, I was hustled by
traders with their sob stories. One, claiming he needed to pay for college,
convinced me to buy some bindis. Again? Yes, bindis were the only thing he was
selling.
After the water dip, we took a boat ride on the Ganges for a wide view before getting down at Meer Ghat, across the river, where the Vishalakshi Temple, also known as Vishalakshi Gauri Temple, awaited us. Temple is dedicated to Goddess Vishalakshi, an incarnation of Goddess Parvati,
revered as the "Wide-Eyed Goddess." As one of the 51 Shakti Peethas,
it holds profound spiritual significance for devotees who believe that the
earring of Sati, Shiva's consort, fell at this very spot. Visiting the
Vishalakshi Temple provides an intimate glimpse into Hindu mythology and
devotion, celebrating the powerful feminine energy of the goddess with deep
reverence and joy.
The temple was packed from the entrance, making
it tough to maneuver inside. I walked around, smiled at the goddess, and left
within five minutes, while the rest of the group stayed deep in prayer. My wait
outside was quite long, as the group didn't want to leave the temple until the
guide signaled to them. Once everyone came out, we walked down the lane, doing
some window shopping and some making a few purchases from the shops. 
By the
time we arrived at Taste Of Benaras Restaurant at 4 pm for lunch, we needed to
quickly decide what to eat, and one of the few items they were ready to serve
was tosai. We ate, or rather gulped down, the tosai before rushing to the
airport for our flight back to New Delhi.
Before
departing, I expressed my biggest thank you to our local guide, Mr. Ashok, one
of the best guides I've encountered in all my travels, gave him a token of
appreciation, and took a picture for remembrance. Bye-bye to Mr. Ashok and
Varanasi.
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