Taj Mahal Agra - (North India)

The journey from Jaipur (JAIPUR LOVE CITY & VARANASI SACRED GANGES) to our destination was about five and a half hours, and I was glad to have the company of some lively ladies on this tour. With jokes and laughter filling the bus, time flew by until our first comfort break. These breaks can happen anywhere, often at roadside shops where a bathroom stop is a must. Here’s the thing: you have to brace yourself. Sometimes there's water, sometimes not, so always carry tissues. Out in the outskirts, you can't afford to fuss; no one’s going to hear you anyway.

For men in India, bathroom breaks are even more informal. They relieve themselves wherever they please, and it's a sight that's hard to miss. I'd seen enough in North India to know it wasn't just a South Indian phenomenon (MYSURU & CHENNAI) . At some sightseeing spots, the smell is impossible to avoid as you walk in.

Jaipur, Rajasthan - The Love City (North India)

My first day in Jaipur was heart-melting and soul-touching (JAIPUR: TIMELESS TRAVEL). The city, famously known as the Pink City, is renowned for its distinctive pink-colored buildings and architecture. This unique hue dates back to 1876 when Maharaja Sawai Ram Singh ordered the city to be painted pink to welcome the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII). Pink, symbolizing hospitality, continues to dominate the old city's landscape, preserving its historic charm.

For me, Jaipur is the Love City. The day began with a visit to the Birla Mandir, also known as the Lakshmi Narayan Temple. Built by the Birla family in 1988, this modern architectural marvel is made entirely of pristine white marble and dedicated to Lord Vishnu and Goddess Lakshmi. Nestled at the base of Moti Dungri Hill, the temple's intricate carvings depict scenes from Hindu mythology, saints, philosophers, and historical figures (VARANASI: SACRED GANGES)

Jaipur, Rajasthan: Timeless Travel Magic

Bidding farewell to Varanasi (VARANASI SACRED GANGES) was a deeply sentimental moment for me; it's one of those places that etched a profound meaning into my soul. But reality dictates that we must move on, so from Varanasi Airport, we flew back to New Delhi, landing at the bustling Delhi Airport before heading to Hotel Sohi Residency for our one-night stay. I wish I had more positive things to say about this hotel, but when you’re informed that accommodations will be three-star, expectations are modest. While I am far from being a travel diva, the bedsheets, pillow covers, and blanket left me questioning the cleanliness. The one redeeming feature was the super clean bathroom, a small consolation.

Varanasi - North India: The Sacred Ganges

One more place to go for the day (VARANASI - EXPERIENCING SACREDNESS), and it’s said to be the best highlight: the Night Aarti at Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple (Golden Temple). Dedicated to Lord Shiva, Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple is one of the twelve holiest Jyotirlingas. Its golden spire stands out against Varanasi's skyline, symbolizing divine light. The night aarti, a revered ritual, draws devotees and tourists with its elaborate chants, hymns, and offerings, creating an atmosphere of profound devotion. Constructed in 1780 on the Ganges' western bank, Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple is a key stop on Varanasi's Heritage Walk, attracting thousands to its nightly ceremony.

Varanasi - North India: The Gateway to Experiencing Sacredness

Having explored South India (CHENNAI & KODAIKANAL) before, this time my journey took me to North India. It was another solo trip, joining a tour group (COLOMBO & KANDY, SRI LANKA) organized by the same friend, though comprised of strangers. Despite the option to share a room and cut costs, I chose, as always, to pay extra for the privacy of my own room.

We arrived at Hotel Arch in New Delhi around 2 AM, greeted by the early winter chill. My room, though small, was clean and comfortable, including the bathroom. The next morning, breakfast was served before 7 AM, a thoughtful gesture despite the limited choices. The highlight was undoubtedly the Bru coffee, a beloved staple in any part of India, whether at street stalls or in hotels.

Chennai (South India): Discover What Awaits

Chennai: Welcome to the bustling chaos of noise, pollution, and endless traffic jams (MADURAI & TRICHY DISCOVERY), where smiles can sometimes feel scarce. This is life in Chennai, South India. 

Let me tell you about my two days exploring this vibrant city. We started our journey at the Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, a revered shrine dedicated to Lord Ranganatha, a reclining form of Lord Vishnu. Known for its intricate Dravidian architecture, the temple boasts majestic towers, beautiful carvings, and peaceful courtyards, amidst the city's hustle.

 

I watched locals immersed in prayer, a testament to South India's deep spirituality. Though not deeply religious myself, I followed our tour group with curiosity, absorbing the temple's atmosphere before moving on (HOKKAIDO JAPAN WINTER LUST).

Next, we visited the Shree Sai Baba Temple. Not a devotee, but I paid my respects and enjoyed the temple's serenity.

At Marina Beach, few shared my excitement. Stretching 13 kilometers along the Bay of Bengal, it's one of India's longest urban beaches, yet sadly littered and polluted. Undeterred, I walked along the shore, passing the evolving 'Puratchi Thalaivi Amma Dr. J. Jaya' Memorial and roadside stalls - life in Chennai.

Next up was shopping at Forum Vijaya Mall - a slice of another country's shopping experience. What caught my eye were India's renowned natural ingredients skincare products, worth every penny. It was my only shopping spree during my time in South India.

For lunch, we opted for Kentucky Fried Chicken, which turned out to be a disappointment. Unlike the hearty meals we enjoy back in Malaysia - no coleslaw, no whipped potato, smaller chicken pieces, and worst of all, no chili sauce! It was an eye-opening experience to try KFC in India, but I doubt I'll repeat it; Malaysian KFC is definitely superior.

Back at S-Hotels, I spent the afternoon idling in my room, flipping through countless TV channels thanks to the WIFI. Dinner was a room service affair - a peppery fish curry with rice that left me sprinting to the restroom once, thankfully just once.

The next morning, with free time on hand, I ventured out into Chennai's rainy streets, dodging puddles. After a stroll and catching up with tour buddies, we had lunch at Sivagangai Karuppiah Mess. The cramped dining area added to the authenticity as we called for a simple meal of chicken, Rasamalai, and Gulam Jamun  - an unremarkable end to my T. Nagar and South India journey before heading back home.

South India Travel Learnings

Instant Recognition: Malaysians in South India

South Indians have a knack for spotting Malaysians right away, often asking or exclaiming "Malaysia?" upon meeting. Despite initial appearances, interactions with locals often reveal their warmth and friendliness. Conversations at temples uncovered that many visitors travelled long distances for their visits, some experiencing these temples for the first time. One humorous encounter involved a local lady questioning the necessity of visiting a Murugan temple in Chennai when Malaysia’s Batu Caves' Murugan is equally renowned in India.

Temples in South India: A Cultural Shock

Visiting temples in South India feels like navigating a battlefield due to the immense crowds. Compared to Malaysia's more orderly atmosphere, the temple experience here can be chaotic, with pushing, shoving, and queue-cutting the norm. Shockingly, even elderly and seemingly frail individuals navigate these crowds with surprising vigor, highlighting how their integral role in temple activities.

 

Temple Practices: Commercialization and Devotion

Despite India's large Hindu population and emphasis on Hinduism's teachings, temple practices often involve transactions. Devotees can pay for queue-jumping privileges or expedited services, highlighting a stark reality within Hinduism's spiritual spaces. Additionally, individuals adorned in orange or yellow attire with sacred markings may offer prayers for a fee, raising questions about the commercial aspects of religious practices. However, the Malaysian Indians I was with placed their trust in these practices.

 

Photographing in Temples

There are restrictions in some temples where you are not even allowed to bring your camera or phone inside. In others, there are designated areas with or without restrictions. Even in temples where photography and videos are permitted, it's nearly impossible due to the sheer number of people and the constant pushing and shoving. I wouldn't dare take out my phone, as anything could happen in such situations.

Dress Code Expectations

Modern dressing is generally not welcomed in South India. Wearing contemporary outfits can attract stares from everyone, except in malls where staff are more accustomed to it. Traditional clothing is expected everywhere else, especially in temples.

 

Shopping Craze: Malaysian Indians in South India

Shopping becomes a passion for Malaysian Indians visiting South India, with every shop, mall, and roadside stall capturing their attention. The focus on shopping, especially for sarees and budget street clothes, overshadows other factors like bulk-imported goods being cheaper. Some prioritize shopping over sightseeing, staying out until late hours even after hotel check-ins, which left me puzzled.

Culinary Adventures: South Indian Cuisine

South Indian cuisine dominates the food experience, predominantly vegetarian throughout the day, including hotel buffet breakfasts devoid of eggs. Surprisingly, the Malaysian Indian group I traveled with adopted a vegetarian diet during the tour, citing temple visits as the reason - a cultural adjustment that raised eyebrows.

Washroom Woes: Hygiene Challenges in South India

Throughout our travels in South India, aside from hotels and malls, the state of washrooms left much to be desired. Often lacking water, pails, adequate lighting, and sometimes even functioning locks, these facilities were frequently unpleasant and smelly. In moments of urgency, one had to manage with these conditions by closing their eyes and holding their breath.

 

Cultural Norms: Public Peeing in South India

A common sight in South India was men freely peeing in public spaces. This casual approach to relieving themselves often included visible displays, which, while accepted locally, could overwhelm with strong odors in some areas.

 

Did I miss out on anything? Perhaps you would like to add?

South India - Madurai/Trichy: Spiritual Insights

By 10 am (KODAIKANAL), we arrived at the entrance of the Meenakshi Amman Temple. Dedicated to Goddess Meenakshi and her consort Sundareswarar (Shiva), this ancient marvel in Madurai, Tamil Nadu, is renowned for its intricate carvings, towering gopurams (gateway towers), and vibrant sculptures dating back to the 6th century, showcasing the splendor of Dravidian architecture. Spanning 14 acres, the temple complex includes grand halls like the Thousand Pillar Hall (MYANMAR - ACROSS THE BORDER OF FROM MAE SAI). 

Upon arrival, we had to deposit our phones and cameras at the booth where we left our slippers, paying a fee. Standing in the long queue, we learned about an option to pay to shorten our wait time - not uncommon in Indian temples. After enduring 45 minutes under the scorching sun, with feet blistered from the burning heat of the cement, I had been in favor from the start; finally, the rest of our group reluctantly agreed, which moved us closer to the center of the line, although many others remained ahead of us.

South India - Kodaikanal: Nature's Wonderland

Kodaikanal! The excitement was palpable as we headed towards this iconic destination, famed for its presence in Tamil movies that I've admired countless times on screen. Known as the "Princess of Hill Stations," Kodaikanal is a serene and picturesque town nestled in Tamil Nadu's Western Ghats. I

Its lush greenery, mist-covered hills, and pleasant climate offer a perfect escape from the heat of the plains, providing breathtaking views of the surrounding landscapes. Situated 2,000 meters above sea level in the Dindigul district, Kodaikanal boasts a unique ecosystem and a blend of natural beauty, tranquility, and mystique, making it a popular honeymoon destination

Our journey from Coimbatore (MYSURU & COIMBATORE) to Kodaikanal spanned 4 1/2 hours, including along narrow, winding in-roads shared with lorries, buses, cars, and motorbikes navigating steep inclines and descents. There were some aggressive gestures and heated exchanges, with words exchanged that felt like a sharp prick in my ears.

Mysuru to Coimbatore: Top South India Sights

Our journey of at least four hours from Bengaluru (BENGALURU TOP TOURIST  SERENDIPITY & SPIRITUALITY)  landed us in Mysuru, where we ventured up the narrow, winding road to Chamundi Hill for a religious homage at Chamundeshwari Temple (New Kantharaj Urs Rd). This ancient temple, situated on Chamundi Hill, is dedicated to Goddess Chamundeshwari, a form of Durga, and dates back to the 12th century. 

It stands as a magnificent example of Dravidian architecture, featuring a towering gopuram adorned with intricate carvings. Besides being a significant religious site, the temple offers breathtaking panoramic views of Mysuru city from its hilltop perch (COLOMBO DISCOVERY). 

Bengaluru, India: Tourist Places to Visit

When a friend invited me on a budget South India tour, I eagerly agreed, despite only having visited Kerala before (KOCHI, KERALA). This 9-night, 8-day trip covered everything except meals and entry fees, and our first stop was Bengaluru.

After a 7-hour drive, we finally arrived in Bengaluru, only to face the infamous city traffic. The constant honking, chaotic driving, and maze-like streets made for quite a spectacle. Every driver seemed like a hero of the road, weaving in and out of lanes. It wasn’t the smoothest introduction to the city (MYANMAR ACROSS MAE SAI), but soon we reached our destination: Lalbagh Botanical Garden.

Myanmar - Across the Border From Mae Sai

A business trip to Chiang Rai turned into the adventure of a lifetime  (COLOMBO) when I decided to squeeze in a visit to Myanmar. With no plans, I found a tour company through my hotel and jumped at the chance to join two others on a trip to Tachileik, starting from Mae Sai in Chiang Rai.

The van arrived with my new travel buddies and our Thai lady guide, a humble and amazing soul. Thrilled to explore (HOKKAIDO WANDERLUST), we headed to Mae Sai. After our guide handled the permits at the border, the real adventure began. The sun was blazing, but I didn’t care - I was too pumped. Crossing the border, I was hit by the raw energy of everyday life. People hustled about, street vendors manned their stalls, and no one gave us a second glance. Our guide filled us in on Tachileik and our stops (KOCHI KALEISCOPE). 

Kochi, Kerala: The Kaleidoscope of Experiences

From the historic St. Francis Church (KOCHI: PEELING THE LAYERS), we navigated through the bustling traffic and finally arrived at the enchanting Kumbalangi Chinese Fishing Village. Kumbalangi, India's first model tourism village, captivates visitors with its iconic "cheena vala" – the Chinese fishing nets that grace its serene backwaters. Introduced by Chinese traders centuries ago, these nets offer a mesmerizing glimpse into Kerala's traditional fishing practices. The village thrives on a harmonious blend of rustic charm and sustainable tourism, inviting visitors to engage with the local fishing community and witness traditional crafts like coir making and crab farming.

Kochi, Kerala: Peeling Back the Layers of History

In another half hour (TRIRUVANANTHAPURAM), we would be in Kochi. During that time, a demure, sweet, middle-aged Keralite lady tour guide joined our van. Without any prompting, she began sharing the significance of Kochi. Also known as Cochin, it’s a major port city on the southwest coast of India in Kerala. Historically referred to as the "Queen of the Arabian Sea," Kochi has been a bustling center of trade and commerce since ancient times, drawing traders from Europe, Arabia, and China. 

Its strategic location and natural harbor have made it a melting pot of cultures, contributing to its diverse heritage. Kochi is also famed for its vibrant maritime history, being home to one of India's oldest European settlements, and it remains a vital hub for shipping and international trade (COLOMBO & KANDY SRI LANKA).

Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala: Beyond the Ordinary

Before we headed to Kochi later in the day, our morning was dedicated to some sightseeing in Thiruvananthapuram (UNCOVERING UNEXPECTED DISCOVERIES) The previous day, we had taken a delightful (ALLEPPEY OVERNIGHT) detour from our itinerary, but today we were all about sticking to the plan. Our day started off around 10 am at the awe-inspiring Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple. This majestic temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, is renowned for its rich history, breathtaking Dravidian architecture, and staggering wealth. 

Established in the 18th century by Travancore Maharaja Marthanda Varma, the temple showcases the deity in a rare "Anantha Shayanam" posture, reclining gracefully on the serpent Anantha. Of course, its international fame skyrocketed with the discovery of hidden treasures worth billions, firmly securing its place as one of the world's richest temples.

Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala: Travel Discoveries

Our journey in Kerala began with a splendid and blissful cruise through the backwaters (ALLEPPEY HOUSEBOAT OVERNIGHT), followed by a four-hour drive to Thiruvananthapuram. This coastal capital nestled by the Arabian Sea is a vibrant cultural hub steeped in history and tradition, known for its rich heritage, educational institutions, and bustling markets - a blend of modern comforts and old-world charm waiting to be explored (COLOMBO).

As we traveled, I couldn't help but marvel at the serene natural beauty - tranquil paddy fields, towering mountains, and the peaceful village life offered a refreshing break from city bustle. Along the way, we made a delightful pit stop at a roadside stall, enjoying Kerala's Masala Chai and snacks like freshly fried vadai and Palam Puri (Kerala Banana Fritters). 

While the chai warmed our hearts, the vadai was good, but let's be honest - nothing compares to our Malaysian Pisang Goreng! (Maybe Keralites need to visit Malaysia for tips on achieving that perfect crispy outside and soft inside!) Just kidding!

After continuing our journey, we arrived at Uday Samudra Leisure Beach Hotel & Spa in Thiruvananthapuram around 1:30 pm for an overnight stay. After dropping our bags in our fourth-floor room, we quickly headed to "The Courtyard" for a delightful buffet lunch overlooking the pool. Despite some dishes running low, the flavors of Kerala cuisine shone through, making it a truly satisfying meal.

Following our city tour of Thiruvananthapuram, passing by notable landmarks such as the Kuthiramalika Palace, Padmanabhaswamy Temple, Napier Museum, and Sree Chitra Art Gallery - though the names were somewhat uncertain - we opted, on our guide's suggestion, for the "Poovar Backwater Cruise" instead. Despite initially likening it to our experience in Alleppey, we decided to give it a go and found ourselves swiftly boarding the boat.

 

The cruise unfolded into a mesmerizing journey through green waters winding amidst mangrove forests and serene villages, including Poovar Village - a quaint coastal settlement near the southern tip of Thiruvananthapuram. It was a perfect opportunity to sit back and marvel at the well-preserved local flora, adorned with countless spices, exotic birds, and vibrant flowers. Lush banana and coconut groves passed by, whichever that caught our attention along the way.

The cruise also included a delightful 20-minute stopover at Golden Sand Beach overlooking the Arabian Sea, where we couldn't resist reliving our childhood memories, basking in the sun and enjoying the moment of "Poovar Backwater Cruise."

Continuing our boat ride, we caught sight of Pozhiyoor Church at the mouth of the Neyyar River near Poovar, although we didn't get a chance to visit. However, the highlight of our excursion felt almost like a legendary achievement: as we navigated the Neyyar River, our guide pointed out the spot where India meets Sri Lanka, separated only by a narrow stretch of water. We were mesmerized by this unique geographical feature, observing locals along the coastline engaged in everyday activities like washing clothes. It was a truly captivating moment that resonated deeply with my love for history.

Opting for the Poovar Backwater Cruise turned out to be an excellent decision, and we were grateful to our driver for the recommendation when he returned to pick us up. Next, we headed to Kovalam Beach to witness the sunset.

 

However, the experience at Kovalam Beach on a crowded Sunday was a bit overwhelming. The narrow streets leading to the beach were jammed, delaying our arrival, and the bustling beach filled with locals made me uneasy as many stared at me while I tried to approach the water. Feeling uncomfortable, I stepped back and found a quieter spot to enjoy the coastline and watch the sunset. Although not a pivotal moment, it added another memorable layer to our Kerala trip.

Next change: Kochi.