Taj Mahal Agra - (North India)

The journey from Jaipur (JAIPUR LOVE CITY & VARANASI SACRED GANGES) to our destination was about five and a half hours, and I was glad to have the company of some lively ladies on this tour. With jokes and laughter filling the bus, time flew by until our first comfort break. These breaks can happen anywhere, often at roadside shops where a bathroom stop is a must. Here’s the thing: you have to brace yourself. Sometimes there's water, sometimes not, so always carry tissues. Out in the outskirts, you can't afford to fuss; no one’s going to hear you anyway.

For men in India, bathroom breaks are even more informal. They relieve themselves wherever they please, and it's a sight that's hard to miss. I'd seen enough in North India to know it wasn't just a South Indian phenomenon (MYSURU & CHENNAI) . At some sightseeing spots, the smell is impossible to avoid as you walk in.

Jaipur, Rajasthan - The Love City (North India)

My first day in Jaipur was heart-melting and soul-touching (JAIPUR: TIMELESS TRAVEL). The city, famously known as the Pink City, is renowned for its distinctive pink-colored buildings and architecture. This unique hue dates back to 1876 when Maharaja Sawai Ram Singh ordered the city to be painted pink to welcome the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII). Pink, symbolizing hospitality, continues to dominate the old city's landscape, preserving its historic charm.

For me, Jaipur is the Love City. The day began with a visit to the Birla Mandir, also known as the Lakshmi Narayan Temple. Built by the Birla family in 1988, this modern architectural marvel is made entirely of pristine white marble and dedicated to Lord Vishnu and Goddess Lakshmi. Nestled at the base of Moti Dungri Hill, the temple's intricate carvings depict scenes from Hindu mythology, saints, philosophers, and historical figures (VARANASI: SACRED GANGES)

Jaipur, Rajasthan: Timeless Travel Magic

Bidding farewell to Varanasi (VARANASI SACRED GANGES) was a deeply sentimental moment for me; it's one of those places that etched a profound meaning into my soul. But reality dictates that we must move on, so from Varanasi Airport, we flew back to New Delhi, landing at the bustling Delhi Airport before heading to Hotel Sohi Residency for our one-night stay. I wish I had more positive things to say about this hotel, but when you’re informed that accommodations will be three-star, expectations are modest. While I am far from being a travel diva, the bedsheets, pillow covers, and blanket left me questioning the cleanliness. The one redeeming feature was the super clean bathroom, a small consolation.

Varanasi - North India: The Sacred Ganges

One more place to go for the day (VARANASI - EXPERIENCING SACREDNESS), and it’s said to be the best highlight: the Night Aarti at Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple (Golden Temple). Dedicated to Lord Shiva, Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple is one of the twelve holiest Jyotirlingas. Its golden spire stands out against Varanasi's skyline, symbolizing divine light. The night aarti, a revered ritual, draws devotees and tourists with its elaborate chants, hymns, and offerings, creating an atmosphere of profound devotion. Constructed in 1780 on the Ganges' western bank, Shri Kashi Vishwanath Temple is a key stop on Varanasi's Heritage Walk, attracting thousands to its nightly ceremony.

Varanasi - North India: The Gateway to Experiencing Sacredness

Having explored South India (CHENNAI & KODAIKANAL) before, this time my journey took me to North India. It was another solo trip, joining a tour group (COLOMBO & KANDY, SRI LANKA) organized by the same friend, though comprised of strangers. Despite the option to share a room and cut costs, I chose, as always, to pay extra for the privacy of my own room.

We arrived at Hotel Arch in New Delhi around 2 AM, greeted by the early winter chill. My room, though small, was clean and comfortable, including the bathroom. The next morning, breakfast was served before 7 AM, a thoughtful gesture despite the limited choices. The highlight was undoubtedly the Bru coffee, a beloved staple in any part of India, whether at street stalls or in hotels.

Chennai (South India): Discover What Awaits

Chennai: Welcome to the bustling chaos of noise, pollution, and endless traffic jams (MADURAI & TRICHY DISCOVERY), where smiles can sometimes feel scarce. This is life in Chennai, South India. 

Let me tell you about my two days exploring this vibrant city. We started our journey at the Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, a revered shrine dedicated to Lord Ranganatha, a reclining form of Lord Vishnu. Known for its intricate Dravidian architecture, the temple boasts majestic towers, beautiful carvings, and peaceful courtyards, amidst the city's hustle.

 

I watched locals immersed in prayer, a testament to South India's deep spirituality. Though not deeply religious myself, I followed our tour group with curiosity, absorbing the temple's atmosphere before moving on (HOKKAIDO JAPAN WINTER LUST).

Next, we visited the Shree Sai Baba Temple. Not a devotee, but I paid my respects and enjoyed the temple's serenity.

At Marina Beach, few shared my excitement. Stretching 13 kilometers along the Bay of Bengal, it's one of India's longest urban beaches, yet sadly littered and polluted. Undeterred, I walked along the shore, passing the evolving 'Puratchi Thalaivi Amma Dr. J. Jaya' Memorial and roadside stalls - life in Chennai.

Next up was shopping at Forum Vijaya Mall - a slice of another country's shopping experience. What caught my eye were India's renowned natural ingredients skincare products, worth every penny. It was my only shopping spree during my time in South India.

For lunch, we opted for Kentucky Fried Chicken, which turned out to be a disappointment. Unlike the hearty meals we enjoy back in Malaysia - no coleslaw, no whipped potato, smaller chicken pieces, and worst of all, no chili sauce! It was an eye-opening experience to try KFC in India, but I doubt I'll repeat it; Malaysian KFC is definitely superior.

Back at S-Hotels, I spent the afternoon idling in my room, flipping through countless TV channels thanks to the WIFI. Dinner was a room service affair - a peppery fish curry with rice that left me sprinting to the restroom once, thankfully just once.

The next morning, with free time on hand, I ventured out into Chennai's rainy streets, dodging puddles. After a stroll and catching up with tour buddies, we had lunch at Sivagangai Karuppiah Mess. The cramped dining area added to the authenticity as we called for a simple meal of chicken, Rasamalai, and Gulam Jamun  - an unremarkable end to my T. Nagar and South India journey before heading back home.

South India Travel Learnings

Instant Recognition: Malaysians in South India

South Indians have a knack for spotting Malaysians right away, often asking or exclaiming "Malaysia?" upon meeting. Despite initial appearances, interactions with locals often reveal their warmth and friendliness. Conversations at temples uncovered that many visitors travelled long distances for their visits, some experiencing these temples for the first time. One humorous encounter involved a local lady questioning the necessity of visiting a Murugan temple in Chennai when Malaysia’s Batu Caves' Murugan is equally renowned in India.

Temples in South India: A Cultural Shock

Visiting temples in South India feels like navigating a battlefield due to the immense crowds. Compared to Malaysia's more orderly atmosphere, the temple experience here can be chaotic, with pushing, shoving, and queue-cutting the norm. Shockingly, even elderly and seemingly frail individuals navigate these crowds with surprising vigor, highlighting how their integral role in temple activities.

 

Temple Practices: Commercialization and Devotion

Despite India's large Hindu population and emphasis on Hinduism's teachings, temple practices often involve transactions. Devotees can pay for queue-jumping privileges or expedited services, highlighting a stark reality within Hinduism's spiritual spaces. Additionally, individuals adorned in orange or yellow attire with sacred markings may offer prayers for a fee, raising questions about the commercial aspects of religious practices. However, the Malaysian Indians I was with placed their trust in these practices.

 

Photographing in Temples

There are restrictions in some temples where you are not even allowed to bring your camera or phone inside. In others, there are designated areas with or without restrictions. Even in temples where photography and videos are permitted, it's nearly impossible due to the sheer number of people and the constant pushing and shoving. I wouldn't dare take out my phone, as anything could happen in such situations.

Dress Code Expectations

Modern dressing is generally not welcomed in South India. Wearing contemporary outfits can attract stares from everyone, except in malls where staff are more accustomed to it. Traditional clothing is expected everywhere else, especially in temples.

 

Shopping Craze: Malaysian Indians in South India

Shopping becomes a passion for Malaysian Indians visiting South India, with every shop, mall, and roadside stall capturing their attention. The focus on shopping, especially for sarees and budget street clothes, overshadows other factors like bulk-imported goods being cheaper. Some prioritize shopping over sightseeing, staying out until late hours even after hotel check-ins, which left me puzzled.

Culinary Adventures: South Indian Cuisine

South Indian cuisine dominates the food experience, predominantly vegetarian throughout the day, including hotel buffet breakfasts devoid of eggs. Surprisingly, the Malaysian Indian group I traveled with adopted a vegetarian diet during the tour, citing temple visits as the reason - a cultural adjustment that raised eyebrows.

Washroom Woes: Hygiene Challenges in South India

Throughout our travels in South India, aside from hotels and malls, the state of washrooms left much to be desired. Often lacking water, pails, adequate lighting, and sometimes even functioning locks, these facilities were frequently unpleasant and smelly. In moments of urgency, one had to manage with these conditions by closing their eyes and holding their breath.

 

Cultural Norms: Public Peeing in South India

A common sight in South India was men freely peeing in public spaces. This casual approach to relieving themselves often included visible displays, which, while accepted locally, could overwhelm with strong odors in some areas.

 

Did I miss out on anything? Perhaps you would like to add?

South India - Madurai/Trichy: Spiritual Insights

By 10 am (KODAIKANAL), we arrived at the entrance of the Meenakshi Amman Temple. Dedicated to Goddess Meenakshi and her consort Sundareswarar (Shiva), this ancient marvel in Madurai, Tamil Nadu, is renowned for its intricate carvings, towering gopurams (gateway towers), and vibrant sculptures dating back to the 6th century, showcasing the splendor of Dravidian architecture. Spanning 14 acres, the temple complex includes grand halls like the Thousand Pillar Hall (MYANMAR - ACROSS THE BORDER OF FROM MAE SAI). 

Upon arrival, we had to deposit our phones and cameras at the booth where we left our slippers, paying a fee. Standing in the long queue, we learned about an option to pay to shorten our wait time - not uncommon in Indian temples. After enduring 45 minutes under the scorching sun, with feet blistered from the burning heat of the cement, I had been in favor from the start; finally, the rest of our group reluctantly agreed, which moved us closer to the center of the line, although many others remained ahead of us.